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Thursday, December 31, 2009

New Year's Eve Dinner

After an annoying delay at the airport (which was made tolerable only because my darling son decided to crawl around and befriend everyone rather than break down and cry), we finally made it home from our long holiday journeys. And it was delicious to be home. As the quiet of our baby sleeping descended on our house, my husband and I realized that we should probably plan a nice dinner for ourselves, because New Year's Eve was almost upon us.

I love occasions to really lavish delightful food on ourselves even though it seems silly to go to such lengths for just two people. But maybe something of the delight is in the extravagance of it, both in time and treasure. It seems nice to seize a few moments to remember that there is something wonderful and worth celebrating between the two of us, something that merits a homemade multi-course menu for two. Plus, there is a little magic about being in the kitchen with my husband working together that always reminds me of our early courtship together where his skills in the kitchen really won me over.

I know some people have interesting or quirky new year's traditions, and that many of them involve food. My German great-grandmother sternly told me I should eat gefilte fish every year on New Year's day. The reasoning for this proscription was never explained. NPR did a radio show today where callers offered all their new year's traditions. Several reported eating pork with kraut, apparently because pigs rout forward and you want to go forward in the new year. By the same logic, one caller warned against eating chicken because chickens scratch backwards, ergo bad luck. Several others called in to say it was the one day a year they consumed a large bowl of black eyed peas, but even the special guest could only hazard a guess as to why (they resemble coins and therefore occasion financial fortune in the new year?).

In my family we've never had any particular hard and fast food traditions for new years, except that we often have shrimp cocktail. But I think that's mostly because it was the height of fancy in my life growing up in southeastern Wisconsin, and it still makes me happy.

Tonight we've decided we're having beef. I'm not sure what to make of that. I think they go forward but not backward, or at least you can get them to go upstairs but not downstairs. That seems to bode well. But they can also be tipped over and can't get back up. Which seems to bode poorly for a year becoming so totally derailed it can't recover. Lets hope the former symbolism outweighs the later. Or that the spirits of new years are not from Wisconsin and therefore have not heard of cow tipping.

We're making Short Ribs Braciole from Andrew Carmellini's truly delightful Urban Italian cookbook. We originally had our eye on the marinated lamb leg with garlic, yogurt and fennel, but alas lamb leg was not to be found at the grocer, and we we're running out of time to my son's next nap, so short ribs it was. They are supposed to be boneless, but the butcher sort of laughed at that, so I'm using bone in short ribs and hoping this is an acceptable substitute.

We're starting with arugula salad, because I simply can't get enough of it. Because it was on ridiculous sale at the store, we're having lobster tail as a second course. Right now I'm thinking some kind of herby citrus brown butter with the lobster. But I'm open to suggestions.

No firm plans for dessert. Somehow that escaped our attention as we drooled over the photos of succulent braised beef. Pots du creme? Creme brulee? Maybe just plain old chocolate ice cream and feet up on the couch to watch a movie.

I'd love to hear what you're having for dinner, and whatever you eat, may you have a happy and prosperous new year!


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Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Six Great Gift Ideas for Foodies, Food Bloggers & Kitchen Goddesses

From practical to whimsical, here are six thoughtful gifts sure to please the kitchen maven in your life.















Jessie Steele Retro Aprons are bringing sexy back to the kitchen. I'm drooling over them all, so I can't decide if I like the Retro Cherries, Classy Black and White, or the Brown Polka Dot Apron. She even makes a Children's Apron.

Will Write for Food: The Complete Guide to Writing Cookbooks, Restaurant Reviews, Articles, Memoir, Fiction and More. This is one of two food writing books that my darling husband surprised me with for the early Christmas we did at my parents' house. I was totally charmed that he thought enough of my hobby to find such an interesting and specific book. It is easy to read and looks really useful.

The Recipe Writer's Handbook. Ditto above, only this one is for folks like myself who like to produce original recipes through experimentation, elbow grease, and luck (and on good days, I also like to think a little talent and experience).

The Art of Simple Food by Alice Waters of Chez Panisse. I made the gingersnap cookies from this book that took food blogs by storm and they were fantastic. Foodies everywhere respect Alice Waters, and this is her homage to the simple, classical recipes that form the backbone of a solid kitchen repertoire.

Misto Gourmet Brushed Aluminum Olive Oil Sprayer. A kitchen staple that I somehow dont have. Sleek and functional. Adds to health in two ways: use less oil and still get a decent coat for sautes, and replace that creepy spray Pam.

This year's hot foodie item seems to be the Russian Matryoshkas Doll measuring cups. I spotted these about a month ago and thought about buying them for my best friend, who is Russian. I waited too long and now they seem to be sold out everywhere in the US (But Europeans are in luck, there are a few Euro distributors who still have them). You can see them (and get on the waiting list) from Anthropologie and Fred Flare. The cheapest price I found was from Cool Stuff Express but they are sold out for 2009.

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Friday, December 11, 2009

7 Common Foods The Experts Avoid

You're food savvy. You've heard of the dirty dozen. You try to buy organic. Me too.

The winter time is coming to most of us, so perhaps you've just cranked open a couple of cans of tomatoes, added some beef, and you have a pot of warm chili simmering on the stove. Maybe you are baking up some potatoes to go with it. While you wait you pop up some microwave popcorn and snuggle up to watch a movie. And you might just be unwittingly serving yourself up a giant dose of chemicals and pesticides linked to a truly jaw dropping array of disorders.

So here it is, straight from the mouths of people whose business it is to know, like researchers who specificially study the effects of some of these chemicals: what they would never eat. Prevention asked food experts what they avoid, and some of the answers are likely to surprise you.

I have to admit this list made me squeemish, because while there are some I already avoid (I buy organic milk) there are others I was totally clueless about (canned tomatoes are a staple in our house).


Canned Tomatoes
"The resin linings of tin cans contain bisphenol-A, a synthetic estrogen that has been linked to ailments ranging from reproductive problems to heart disease, diabetes, and obesity. Unfortunately, acidity (a prominent characteristic of tomatoes) causes BPA to leach into your food. Studies show that the BPA in most people's body exceeds the amount that suppresses sperm production or causes chromosomal damage to the eggs of animals."

Corn-Fed Cattle
"Compared with corn-fed beef, grass-fed beef is higher in beta-carotene, vitamin E, omega-3s, conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), calcium, magnesium, and potassium; lower in inflammatory omega-6s; and lower in saturated fats that have been linked to heart disease."

Microwave Popcorn
"Chemicals, including perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), in the lining of the bag, are part of a class of compounds that may be linked to infertility in humans... In animal testing, the chemicals cause liver, testicular, and pancreatic cancer. Studies show that microwaving causes the chemicals to vaporize—and migrate into your popcorn."

Non-Organic Potatoes
"I've talked with potato growers who say point-blank they would never eat the potatoes they sell. They have separate plots where they grow potatoes for themselves without all the chemicals."

Farmed Salmon
"You can only safely eat one of these salmon dinners every 5 months without increasing your risk of cancer,"

Milk Produced with Artificial Hormones
The artificial hormones used to stimulate production cause udder infections that leaks pus into the milk. Yuck. When ingested by humans it has been associated with a rise in early puberty and "may contribute to breast, prostate, and colon cancers." The use of these hormones are banned in most industrialized countries, but not the USA.

Non-Organic Apples
Breeding specific varieties of apples increases their suceptibility to pests, so growing apples requires some of the highest use of chemical pesticides. "increasing numbers of studies are starting to link a higher body burden of pesticides (from all sources) with Parkinson's disease."


Read More...

Friday, November 13, 2009

Wasabi Brisket: So good you'll want to slap yourself

This recipe is somewhat adapted from an award winning recipe originally published in the Chicago Tribune. In general I like to publish original recipes on this site, but the Wasabi Brisket is such a stunning example of some of the basic Skinny Gourmet principles, it had to be included. This tender meat is so unbelievably flavorful that a small serving is very satisfying. Better still, it makes for an outstanding salad for the next day's lunch. You can also wrap the brisket, lettuce and mandarin oranges in a soft pita wrap for a slightly more filling presentation. This dish is a favorite of entertaining in our home. We now have out of town guests who request this dish in advance when they come to visit us.

An Asian take on barbecued brisket, this recipe was developed in the test kitchen and accompanied a story about wasabi, written by food and wine reporter Bill Daley. The brisket can be cooked a day ahead, then finished with the sauce an hour before serving. It also freezes extraordinarily well, so I tend to freeze leftovers in portion serving sizes to pop out for easy lunches or dinners. Wasabi powder and paste are sold in Asian and spice markets, and some larger supermarkets.

Are you publishing someone else's recipe?
As a general rule all the recipes on this site are my original recipes. I have tried to find the original Chicago Tribune recipe to link to online without luck. I even tried contacting the Chicago Tribune food section. Nothing. My mother-in-law advises that food test kitchens work on the rule of three: if you have significantly changed three elements of the recipe you can call it your own. So here I present my adaptations to the original recipe, with as much credit as I can give.


Ingredients

Rub:

2 tablespoons each: Chinese 5-spice powder, brown sugar, ground cumin, sweet paprika
2 cloves garlic, finely minced or pressed
2 teaspoons kosher sea salt
1 piece (3 inches long) ginger root, finely minced or grated
1 tablespoon wasabi powder,
2 teaspoons coarsely cracked tricolor peppercorns
1 teaspoon each: ground cardamom, ground coriander
1 beef brisket, first cut, trimmed, about 4-6 pounds

Sauce:

1-2 cups homemade beef broth or stock, divided
1/2 cup low-sodium soy sauce
3 tablespoons each: Thai sweet red chili sauce, wasabi powder, brown sugar
2 cloves garlic, pressed
1 tablespoon whole grain mustard
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper

Combine dry rub ingredients. Trim brisket of fat layer. Place brisket in a glass (or non-reactive) 13 x 9 inch pan. Massage dry rub into the brisket on all sides to form a thick crust. Cover with foil and refrigerate 8 hours or overnight.

Remove meat from refrigerator and allow to reach room temperature (approximately 30 minutes). Place brisket in slowcooker. You may need to cut into two large pieces to ensure a better fit into your slowcooker.

Whisk together soy sauce, red chili sauce, wasabi powder, brown sugar, garlic, mustard, salt and pepper, and 1 cup of stock. Pour sauce over the brisket. If needed, add up to one more cup of stock to more completely emerge the brisket in the cooking liquid.

Cook in the slow cooker on low for 8 hours or until fork tender (with any luck at all, it will almost be spoon-tender).

I like to serve this very flavorful meat dish with plain boiled redskin potatoes, or grilled planks of russet potatoes. It really needs a simple accompaniment. For a side I think the sour greens from the Inn at Little Washington cookbook is ideal. Garnish with diagonally cut fresh green onions.

The Slowcooker? In our house we are head over heels for slowcooking meat. Slowcookers are enjoying a real renaissance right now, and for good reasons. Nothing makes meat more tender than cooking it for hours on low heat. My husband made this dish three or four times using conventional oven roasting and was never satisfied. It became his meat-nemisis. But if you want to cook in the oven, here are the original Journal oven directions: "Heat oven to 350 degrees. Cook brisket in oven 1 hour. Reduce heat to 275 degrees; bake until just tender, 4- 4 1/2 hours. Remove from oven; let stand 20 minutes...Slice, add sauce, and cook until fork tender, 45 minutes-1 hour."




Nutrition information per serving:

299 calories, 40% of calories from fat, 13 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 89 mg cholesterol, 14 g carbohydrates, 30 g protein, 1,553 mg sodium, 1 g fiber

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Monday, October 19, 2009

Hey New Yorkers: Win a City Food Tour for Two!

An older foodie trend and a newer foodie trend are coming together. Lately it seems that walking tours of urban food spots are the hot new thing. Several were just taking off as I was leaving Chicago, including at least one bike tour. And what foodie or food blog addict doesn't sort of love the Top Chef series? If you are anything like me, you love to play along from home, "Oh NO! Always taste things before you serve them!" or "No No! That is NOT a chicken piccata! What are you doing?" or cringing into your couch as they plan some overly ambitious catering menu that is going to suck four hours later when its finally served.

Well, here's your chance to get a little closer to the action. City Food Tours offers a cool "In the Steps of a Top Chef" tour. The tour is featured in Time Out New York as one of the best things to do on a Staycation, and Trip Advisor ranks the "Flavors of New York Tour" a Top 10 Tour in America for 2009! If you are in the New York City or Philadelphia areas, you can take part in the foodie fun first hand. They are giving away a pair of tickets to a reader of Skinny Gourmet, which is nearly a $90 value!


The Top Chef themed tour is designed to bring guests as close to the professional chef experience as possible while having fun and experiencing some of the venues and highlights of the reality series when it was shot in New York. One of the things that really impressed me about this particular food tour company is that all of the City Food Tours excursions are led by professional guides who are also actively working professional chefs.

Tour participants go shopping for ingredients at markets, learn how to use kitchen knives properly, participate in interactive challenges along the tour and take a Top Chef Trivia Quiz for prizes. Of course its not all just food for your brain. Your mouth gets to have a lot of fun too:

  • Sample a sandwich at one of Tom Colicchio's eateries, 'wichcraft
  • Savory snack made by a former cheftestant from Season 4
  • A tasty Chinatown Treat
  • Artisan Cheese in Little Italy where Leah from Season 5 shopped


Many locations you've seen on TV are featured on the tour, including where Carla cooked squab & peas, where the chefs shopped for their challenges and the cooking school where they shot during Season 3.

If you are looking for something beyond the Top Chef experience, City Food Tours has other walking food tours that each offer their own particular twist on the urban food scene. The New "Flavors of New York Tour" takes walkers to the heart of the East Village and includes at least seven different tasting stops. On the "Nolita Tour," guests check out the hot spots in Manhattan's trendiest neighborhoods and get to learn a little of their history. The "Lower East Side Artisan Food Highlights Tour" takes guests through the area’s immigrant history while tasting ethnically inspired foods influenced from all around the world. And the "Chocolate, Desserts & Wine Tour" of the Upper West Side speaks for itself. I for one am drooling and totally jealous that I live in Nashville with no cool walking food tours.

Please Note, that the fine folks at City Food Tours sent me this disclaimer to include: In the Steps of a Top Chef tour isn't an authorized or official tour. Top Chef is the property of Bravo Media, which is owned by NBC Universal. City Food Tours is not licensed, approved by or otherwise associated with NBC Universal, or any contestant, judge or any other person responsible for appearing on Top Chef. The content is assumed to be within the realm of the Public's Right of "Fair Use" & no copy infringement is intended.

Skinny Gourmet disclosure: I have not had the opportunity to evaluate the quality of City Food Tours first hand, this is not an endorsement of this product. I have received no compensation for this post. I have decided to host this contest because I feel the product being offered is something of interest to my readers.

How to Enter the Giveaway: You must live in or near New York City or Philadelphia to enter. Leave a comment to this post, or Tweet @SkinnyGourmet (including a link to this post) and tell me why you want to go on the Top Chef tour with a friend. You must enter by 5pm CST on Monday October 26th. The winner will be randomly chosen. After you go on your tour, I would like to invite the winner to write a post about their experiences that I will post on the Skinny Gourmet.

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Thursday, October 1, 2009

How to make baby food at home
(fast, easy, cheap and organic!)

QUICK LINKS
*The ugly truth about commercial baby food
*When do I start solid foods?
*How much food will my baby eat?
*How many times a day should I feed my baby?
*What time of day should I feed my baby?
*What kind of equipment do I need to make baby food?
*What texture should homemade baby food be?
*How do I make and store homemade baby food?

Taking control of your baby's own food allows you to be as local, sustainable and organic as you want to be. It minimizes your child's exposure to pesticides and toxins. It increases the amount of healthy nutrients she receives while minimizing the useless fillers she would otherwise consume. It exposes your child to a wider variety of tastes and textures and prepares them to have a diverse palate as they grow into toddlerhood. It is a foodie rockstar thing to do and it turns out to be way cheaper and easier than you might think.

My baby, Liam, enjoying some homemade blended quinoa.


If you've been to a couple of baby showers, chances are you have encountered the horrible game of "guess the baby food." Jars with labels removed are lined up in front of guests. Guests dip a spoon in, taste, cringe, and then try to fathom what alleged combination of foods produced that hideous bland unappetizing flavor. Whenever I have done this I always thought there was some mystical but highly researched reason for this...that babies were odd creatures with utterly different taste sensibilities. This is babyfood myth #1.

In the West we generally live in a world where most folks think of "chicken" as "boneless skinless breasts." We get so accustomed to the commercial retail form of our foods that sometimes its easy to forget there ever was another form. So when I thought of baby food, I thought of it in a jar with a smiling Gerber baby. Surely to make your own baby food must be as complex as souffle. Worse even, so nutritionally sensitive and precise it would be like making a souffle that also cured cancer.

This is babyfood myth #2, sometimes called the baby food mystique: "Makers of baby food encourage a mystique about their products. They want parents to think that commercial baby foods have special properties that make them particularly appropriate, if not essential, for infants." --Cheating Babies

Both of these misconceptions turn out to be utter and complete bullocks.

The truth is that with about 15 minutes of active time and a handful of kitchen equipment you probably already own, you can make 9-12 servings of organic baby food for around $2.


Tasty nutritious food makes babies happy. Look how bright green those peas are! And the low cost makes parents happy.



Read on to learn how to make your own baby food at home...

This post is not intended to replace a doctor's advice. You should always consult with your pediatrician about all decisions about your baby's food including, but not limited to, when to start solids, what foods to offer, how much, how often.

Getting Started

Many parents are eager to begin the fun of introducing baby to a variety of new tastes but wonder when they can start to introduce solid foods. You should always consult your pediatrician about when it is appropriate to begin solid foods. Factors like baby's developmental pace and weight can affect the timing of starting solid foods. The American Academy of Pediatrics recommends that solid foods be introduced between 4 and 6 months of age. The section within the AAP that is devoted to breastfeeding recommends exclusive breastfeeding for 6 months before the introduction of solids. The section of the AAP devoted to nutrition recommends introducing solids earlier, possibly as early as 4 months.

Signs that baby are ready include intently watching you while you eat, being twice her birth weight, sitting up with support and showing good head control.

Most guides recommend beginning with very thinned out rice cereal. Once baby is tolerating rice cereal well, and consistently taking some without automatically spitting it all out, you may be ready to move onto other solid foods.

Solid foods should be introduced one at a time. This is to check for potential food allergies. Most guides recommend you introduce one new food not more often than every three days. This doesn't mean baby has to eat nothing but peas for three days straight. If baby has already successfully tried zucchini and sweet potato, when it comes time to introduce peas you may mix them up with the familiar foods he has already tried. But during the three days where peas are a new food, you should not introduce any other new foods (that includes spices).

Signs that baby is having an allergic reaction include rashes, repeated vomiting, diarrhea, or constant fussiness. Blood in baby's stool is always cause for concern as well. If any of these signs appear discontinue the food you most recently introduced to baby and call to your pediatrician.

When babies are first starting out with solid foods they should receive one feeding of food per day. The amount of food may be anywhere between 1 tablespoon and a quarter cup initially depending on your baby. Make feeding time fun. Allow your baby to eat as much as she desires and do not force the food on your baby. At this point breastmilk or formula is still her primary source of nutrition, and nothing terrible will happen if she only wants to eat a tablespoon one day. Honor your baby's internal sense of hunger.

As baby moves through developmental milestones in the coming months, her energy and nutrition needs increase. By the end of the sixth month (or whenever baby is moving towards being an unassisted sitter and a decent tummy scooter), many parents find it is time to add a second solid food meal to the day. By the eight or ninth month baby often has three meals a day. As baby moves into toddlerhood, baby may still consume 24 ounces of milk or breastmilk per day, but the additional volume of food to satisfy her growing and active body is met by increasing solids.

Some parents wonder when to feed baby her solid foods. When introducing new foods, it can be important to give a new food during the daylight, so that you have plenty of awake time to observe the baby for any signs of an allergic reaction. This often means that a good time for baby's daily meal is lunchtime. However, if you find you can better schedule the day if baby takes her meal at breakfast, don't worry. It will still give you plenty of day hours to observe baby for signs of reaction, and your baby doesn't yet know that she isn't "supposed" to eat turkey and broccoli for breakfast!

Initially, solid foods are not supposed to replace breastmilk or formula. Therefore you want to allow adequate time between a bottle and a feeding. If you are offering food before a bottle, finish feeding solids at least 30 minutes, if not more, before their next anticipated liquid feeding time. Other guides recommend breast or bottle feeding baby first, and then offering solids afterwards. Discuss this with your pediatrician, as opinions vary.

Equipment

The equipment you'll need to begin preparing your own Stage 1 solid foods at home is likely to be things you already own, or can acquire quite cheaply. There is no need to shell out $150 for the fancy European steamer blender baby food maker you have probably seen advertised in a catalog or two, although I've heard folks who use it love it. So if it is in your budget you can certainly consider it.

    What you'll need to get started:
  • 1 steamer and pot or microwave steamer
  • 1 wand blender with tall glass jar, such as a large canning jar OR 1 blender
  • 1 ice cube tray
  • ziplock bags and a marker to label them
  • Optional but useful: mesh strainer, fork, potato masher


Baby's first foods need to be very smooth with a thin, almost watery consistency. As baby develops more experience eating, the foods can gradually become thicker, and you can experiment with adding in textures. If you are unsure how thin to make baby's first foods, try looking at some commercially prepared stage one foods. As a general rule of thumb, first foods should not be so thin as to actually flow as easily as water. You are looking for something the consistency of a thick, smooth soup, such as a thick tomato soup.

Eventually you will be able to use a whole host of kitchen gadgets to produce a variety of textures, but to start you want a very smooth, uniform texture. I experimented with several different techniques, and I am convinced that a blender is all you will need for about the first month of baby's food. Blenders are able to produce a far more fine and smooth texture than food processors.

My preference is for a wand blender (available for about $15 at home stores). I like it because it is so much quicker and easier to clean up. When you are a new mom, time is a very precious commodity. I like to use the wand blender with a tall glass jar such as a quart-sized Ball canning jar or other wide-mouthed jar (I like tall because it contains spatter and glass because it doesn't leech any chemicals into hot foods). Afterwards the bottom of the wand blender detaches to be rinsed and washed quickly with a soapy sponge, and the mason jar can go easily into the dishwasher. I detest fiddling with all the parts of a blender, but if you have a blender that you like, it will easily do the job.

I prefer ice cube trays to the commercially sold plastic baby food freezer containers. Those specialty baby food containers are not only more expensive than a standard ice cube tray, but they are larger. I prefer to freeze the food in ice cube sized increments because then in the future it gives me more freedom to combine to make different 'meals' for baby. Baby may have all sweet potato (2 cubes of sweet potato), or a combination of apple sauce and turkey, or sweet potato and broccoli. As baby eats more, I can combine three cubes, producing appetizing meals like turkey, quinoa and asparagus or lamb, apricot and squash.

The Basic Process

The basic process of making baby food is remarkably simple. I've had people watch me make it and finish with "Really? That's all?" And I know that feeling because that was my reaction the first time I saw someone else make it.

First, select produce that is at the peak of its freshness, without mushy spots that have "gone off." I prefer to buy only organic fruits and vegetables, but you will likely purchase what your budget can bear. If preparing meats for baby, I would strongly advise purchasing organic anti-biotic free meats, especially for younger babies.

Even if you are working with organic produce, you should always wash the fruits and vegetables well before preparing them.

You want to heat the food until it is soft and well cooked, but not falling apart, mushy, and drained of nutrients. Typical cooking methods for baby's first foods include boiling or simmering in water, steaming, or baking.

Often, although not always, skins are removed before blending. Anything you would remove for yourself (think banana skin, potato as well for stage 1) you should certainly remove for baby. Additionally, some guides recommend removing things like peach or plum skins. If you are not buying organic produce I would always recommend removing skin as it often has the highest concentration of chemicals.

Once the food is cooked thoroughly, add large hunks of it to the blending container. Blend until food is smooth in consistency. Add breastmilk, formula or water to thin to the consistency your baby can handle.

Store three day's worth of food in a container in your fridge (two for meats). Spoon the remaining food into an ice cube tray and freeze. When frozen solid, transfer cubes from tray to a ziplock or food storage container. Label with the name of the food as well as the date it was made. Vegetables, fruits and grains can be stored in the freezer for up to three months. Meats are typically recommended for up to one month. I like to also label the ziplock bag with the date I have to use it by (i.e. three months from the date it was produced for a veggie), so that I don't have to do too much thinking down the road.

For suggestions on foods to try and recipes for homemade baby food, see the third post in my baby food series (upcoming)

Read More...

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

The ugly truth about commercial baby food

If you've been to a couple of baby showers, chances are you have encountered the horrible game of "guess the baby food." Jars without labels are lined up in front of guests. Guests dip a spoon in, taste, cringe, and then try to fathom what alleged combination of foods produced that hideous bland unappetizing flavor. Whenever I have done this I always thought there was some mystical but highly researched reason for this...that babies were odd creatures with utterly different taste sensibilities. This is baby food myth #1.

In the West we generally live in a world where most folks think of "chicken" as "boneless skinless breasts." We get so accustomed to the commercial retail form of our foods that sometimes its easy to forget there ever was another form. So when I thought of baby food, I thought of it in a jar with a smiling Gerber baby. Surely to make your own baby food must be as complex as souffle. Worse even, so nutritionally sensitive and precise it would be like making a souffle that also cured cancer. This is baby food myth #2.

These myths are sometimes called the baby food mystique: "Makers of baby food encourage a mystique about their products. They want parents to think that commercial baby foods have special properties that make them particularly appropriate, if not essential, for infants." --Cheating Babies

The Center for Science and Public Interest released a report entitled Cheating Babies: Nutritional Quality and Cost of Commercial Baby Food. They find that commercial baby food companies routinely dilute the nutritional content (and value) of baby foods with fillers such as starches and water.

The mystique around commercial baby food grows out of the earliest efforts to market baby food to the American public in the 1920s through the 1950s: "Food companies capitalized on "modern" notions of scientific feeding and the superiority of manufactured items over those homemade." (Food Timeline). The iconic Gerber line of baby food was launched in 1928, putting a homey face on commercial baby food. Spread through ads in women's magazines, the smiling baby face promised modern convenience and appealed to the mid-20th Century housewife.

The pictures of fresh produce on the jars today don't tell you the whole story of what's inside.

"Gerber and Heinz dilute many second- and third-stage fruits and vegetables with water and starchy fillers and sweeten them with sugars. That practice greatly reduces the nutrient density of those foods compared to the pure fruit or vegetable product." These fillers include flour, corn syrup, corn, sugar or chemically modified tapioca. Yum, sounds delicious right?

Another problem with the practice of diluting nutritious food with fillers, which the report authors do not raise, is that several of the most common fillers are potential allergens. Corn and Wheat can both potentially cause allergic reactions in small children, and some recent scientific studies suggest that long term allergies, such as the allergy to wheat (Celiac disease), may be reduced by avoiding contact with those foods before babies are one year old (see Scientific American). So by feeding your baby commercially prepared baby foods loaded with fillers, you may be inadvertently exposing them to large quantities of potential allergens.

Researchers found that adulteration was more common with the second and third stage foods than with the stage 1 foods. Adulteration was so rampant that a "2.5-ounce jar of first-stage bananas or first-stage prunes actually contains more fruit than the 4-ounce jars of second-stage products that are adulterated with water and chemically modified starch." A 4 ounce serving of fresh apricots (such as the kind you could make yourself at home) contains twice the potassium and Vitamin A as the commercially prepared Gerber apricots, and approximately four times as much as the Heinz brand jarred apricots.

Any bride knows (or learns quickly) that just adding the word "wedding" to something automatically doubles its price. Turns out the same is true for "baby." The report finds "parents often pay more than double for baby food fruit juices and applesauce. Gerber Graduates diced fruits and vegetables are also more than twice the price of comparable products available in the canned goods aisle." This is a finding that Consumer Reports echoes as well.

And all those fillers and water add up to greater profits, "Gerber and Heinz replace up to 70% of their second- and third-stage fruits with water and then thicken them with chemically modified tapioca starch. They also add starchy fillers to all their regular second- and third-stage dinners."

American babies consume an average of 600 jars of baby food by the time they are a year old (compared to 240 jars for Western European babies). The study suggests that new parents spend an average of $300 on baby food by the time baby reaches 12 months. And remember, babies don't begin to eat solid foods until they are 4 to 6 months old. Parents who want to purchase commercially prepared organic baby food that has few or no fillers pay considerably more, often $1-1.50 per jar of baby food.

The bottom line?
It is important that baby's first foods be non-allergenic and easily digestible, but commercial baby foods do not have the market on healthy baby food cornered. They became popular in the middle of the 20th Century thanks to ingenious marketing efforts that encouraged the baby food mystique amid general embracing of all things "scientific" as superior to "folk" versions. But the fillers added to commercial baby food dilute its nutritional content, and they are there for profit, not the science of baby nutrition.

Although I am convinced that home made baby foods are nutritionally superior to most commercial options, and are objectively cheaper, in general I think the world has enough judgment in it already, and mothers take more than their fair share. If you are already frazzled and tearing your hair out trying to be a good mom and you just don't think you can manage to make baby food, breathe deeply and relax. Cause you'll get no judgment from me. I think it is cheaper by a long shot and quicker and easier than I ever thought, so I'd love to see a lot of skeptics give it a try, but if it isn't for you don't worry. There are a thousand other ways to show your kid love, and she certainly isn't going to flunk out of calculus in 18 years just because you didn't puree her baby food at home.

If you want to give homemade baby food a try, check back next week for the second post in my baby food series, where I talk you through the entire process of making your own cheap, fast, easy, organic baby food at home. And remember those horrible tasting commercial jars? The baby food you make at home tastes just like, well, food.

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Thursday, August 27, 2009

Arugula salad with goat cheese and summer fruits

I am profoundly sorry, but no picture on this one. I realize it is one of the grave sins of food blogging not to provide a mouthwatering photo. But I was starving for lunch, and those farmer's market peaches were just calling to me. And I've been on such an obsessive arugula kick lately that the salad began to take shape before I knew what was happening and then it just looked so mouthwateringly delicious that, well, I just sort of ate it all before my brain could even process the idea about taking a picture.

Sorry y'all.

But on the other hand, here's a suggestion for a darn tasty salad that celebrates the ripe juiciness of fruits bursting with summer, the bright pepperiness of arugula, and the smooth creamy tang of soft chevre goat cheese.


Arugula salad with goat cheese and summer fruits

Serves 2

Divide between two bowls:
4 ounces arugula, rinsed & patted dry
1/4 cup fresh blueberries
6 strawberries, rinsed & sliced
1 peach, rinsed & sliced
2-3 Tbsp fresh chevre

Drizzle with balsamic vinegar, extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper. Dig in and drool...

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