Coming Soon: The weatherman has begun predicting sunny weather, so I am gearing up for gourmet picnics and a spring series on tea treats. Look soon for Old Fashioned Irish Scones, English crumpets, cucumber sandwiches and more! If you are new, check out the Skinny Gourmet Philosophy or the Skinny Gourmet Best of 2007.

Thursday, May 22, 2008

Five Quirky Food Facts About Me

I wrestled with whether or not I wanted to do this for a while. I started this blog with a very "website" based mentality, in which the author isn't usually a presence. But over the last few months of experiencing the wide world of "blogging" I've come to appreciate that one of the wonderful things that separately this new media revolution from older journalistic media forms is precisely the more intimate presence of the voice and perspective of the writer. And I have somehow misplaced the cord that connects my camera to computer, so my progress on recipes with mouthwatering photos is stalled until I can find it. Which is a long-winded way of saying here are a few interesting (or so I think) food-related bits about me, in case you were curious.


This whole ball actually got rolling because of a few memes floating around cyberspace. Months ago I first got tapped by Laura of The Spiced Life, and then by Julie of The Food Architect. Bloggers are asked to write about five interesting facts about themselves, and then pass it on. Then I was also honored by Sugar Bar who tapped the Skinny Gourmet as a great blog. I believe this "pass it on" award is actually called the "Arteypico award" and it instructs you to "select 5 blogs that you feel excel in creativity, design, interesting material, and also contribute to the blogging community, no matter what language."

So first, about me. And then the fun part, where I get to compliment some amazing blogs.

  • For as long as I can remember as a kid I was into making "potions." I would run around the house and combine all manner of improbable liquids and solids and then proudly declare it a potion. This entertained me for years. Over time it seemed natural that I would either focus on the bathroom cabinet and become some sort of chemist dedicated to curing man's ills, or I would turn to the kitchen and become some sort of cook. The world may be one disease too many for my choice, but I hope it is a little tastier.


  • I never had salmon until I got into college. My New York roommate ate salmon all the time, and so she and her family were the first ones to introduce me to it. Everything about salmon--from the color to the taste--was totally unfamiliar to a girl who grew up on Lake Michigan white-fleshed fish. I have gradually come to really love salmon (it is a super food after all) and particularly like it lightly smoked with a teriyaki glaze or done with a grainy honey-mustard sauce and dill.


  • This is my guilty little secret as a foodie: I adore ketchup, that most plebeian of all condiments. I am a ketchup fanatic. I put it on eggs. I put it on mac and cheese. I definitely put it on almost anything fried (onion rings? uh huh) and on most things that are potato based (tots? yes please). My in-laws gave me a shirt that says "I put ketchup on my ketchup" one year for Christmas. When going to Ghana I actually packed a big bottle of Heinz to travel with me. I consider the small bottles that many restaurants put out to be single servings.


  • I have a teensy little tendency to obsession. Last summer I went on a meringue rampage that culminated in my almost famous Orange Chocolate Meringues and Pavlova with brandied peaches and chai custard sauce that my friends are still talking about. A little while ago it was scones. Currently it's biscotti. This week alone I have already made two different kinds of biscotti and have plans for a third. I like that repeating a process, with small variations, several times over a short time span has the effect of quickening the learning curve. Like a scientist in the lab, I can more readily appreciate the effects of changes in a recipe if I make them one after another. Biscotti with or without butter? one egg or two? Make one on Tuesday and the next batch on Wednesday and you don't have to take someone else's word for it, because you can see for yourself. So in my world obsession equals foodie empowerment. And I "have" to eat all those biscotti from my experiments. Mmmmmm.


  • I have an unnatural joy of foam. Not that I've ever been to a fancy Madrid restaurant where the "food as foam" movement really gained its fame. I'm talking about good old fashioned things that foam without much assistance. I'm drinking my mocha extra foamy, and that glorious two inches of skim milk foam on top is like a snowy layer of pure happiness. I was the kid who purposely poured my coca-cola hard into the glass so I could quickly and greedily slurp up that precious head of cola foam that formed. Sweet lassi at an Indian restaurant? Always best if it is whipped up enough to have that enduring little layer of cloudy sour yogurt foam. It makes me wish I had a camel tongue so I could lick up every last bit from the bottom of the glass.





And now it is my pleasure to pass on the compliment to a number of food blogs that I adore. Of course, there are some wonderful blogs out there that are already highly recognized, so I wanted to focus on some wonderful blogs that I think don't get as much attention as they deserve. The photos below are from each of these fabulous bloggers sites, just to give you a taste of what awaits...


Kalofagas

Consistently puts out tempting dishes based on his Greek heritage. Armed with attractive photos and a great sense of humor, this blog is a joy to visit. More ways to make lamb than you can shake a stick at, this site often features tempting stick-to-your-ribs food that will have you running out to fire up the grill.







Aapplemint

Kate/Kajal may be known to you if you follow the Indian Ocean blogger circuit, where she's a rockstar, but otherwise I'm guessing you may not have encountered this beautiful blog. Kate is a fellow expat living in Ghana, which is how I first encountered her. Her photography is breathtaking, and she combines stunning food photos with travel photos that will transport you to the beautiful path less traveled that she occupies. From tea in Morocco to riverside towns in Ghana, from mango cake to a melty Napoleon, this site is not to be missed.










She Craves

A classy site design focused on simple elegance that perfectly compliments the cooking style of this gifted blogger. Her food is imaginative while still being fare that a tempted chef could imagine actually preparing at a home table. She consistently brings us interesting twists on classic dishes, so you may see roasted chicken or chicken soup that is familiar yet utterly reinvented.












Closet Cooking

Kevin is still rocking a fairly no-frills blog template, but don't let that turn you away. Like a chef who spends too much time in the kitchen making magic to worry about the window treatments, Kevin consistently brings us a great variety of light and inspiring dishes from a variety of world cuisines. This is one of food blogging's under-appreciated gems.


Cooking from A to Z

This is a fun and fearless approach to food that embodies the idea of joie de vivre in the kitchen. A wide and eclectic number of recipes most of which bend slightly towards healthy fare. You are just as likely to see gooey delicious cupcakes as you are to see Indian food transformed into classy little fusion crostinis.

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Monday, May 19, 2008

Taste and Create: Old Fashioned Irish Raisin Spice Scones

If you are looking for a healthy scone, it doesn't get much healthier than this. It isn't fancy, and if you are accustomed to those big butter, big calorie scones sold at American cafes, you may find this old fashioned scone a bit humble. This is the brawny, salt-of-the-earth peasant scone to Starbuck's high maintenance cosmopolitan diva. It is a dense scone when compared to its butter-rich counterparts. It has a mild flavor that is more "floury" than "buttery." But this recipe was first written at a time when butter and sugar were still luxuries that were used preciously.



It took me a while to figure out how I really feel about these scones. I am in love with the history of the recipe--which was handed down in a handwritten book from an Irish mother to her blogging Irish daughter Ruth (of Ruth's Kitchen Experiments). The post is even titled My Wee Mummy's Scones. I mean, how can you not be a little in love with that? Though my head was in love, my tastebuds were unsure. My initial taste reaction when I first tried one was that it didn't quite pack enough "oomph." My tastebuds are selfish little guys who have been totally duped by those sugary, buttery versions at the cafe.

However, over the week that they sat in a container on my countertop, I found myself returning to these little scones pretty regularly when I was looking for a convenient snack that was hardy enough to be satisfying. When you eat one, you have the sense that you have actually "eaten," compared to the "oh well I had better stop now but I still feel peckish" sensation that most convenient snack foods can produce (chips, pretzels etc).

I came across this recipe thanks to Taste and Create, a blogger exchange that invites food bloggers to prowl through each other's recipes, recreate one, and blog about the experience. I know how hard I work to put together original recipes, so I always take these exchanges fairly seriously. I want to try to recreate the recipe as faithfully as possible, and avoid all temptation of the "epicurious syndrome" where people comment on a recipe but they have made so many of their own deviations and variations that it is no longer really the original recipe at all. Judging from the picture on her website, I'd say mine turned out pretty much exactly as intended.

As an academic I am ultra-sensitive to issues of attribution and intellectual property, and so normally I would not reproduce the recipe on my site, I would just direct you to the original recipe. However, the original recipe is all in weights (ounces or grams), and most of my readers are Americans who use volumetric recipes (cups or tablespoons). So I have reproduced the volumetric recipe from the original below (using the spice variation).

I don't know if I would make these again in the exact same way, but the healthy and sturdy characteristics make this recipe an interesting base to begin experimenting from. I am including my inclination for what I would do differently next time as well below, along with the Nutritional Information so you can see how healthy these little guys are.


Original Recipe: My Wee Mummy's Scones.

Volumetric Recipe Adaptation

Makes 12 scones

1.75 cups all-purpose flour
2.5 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon cloves
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
3 tablespoons caster sugar
2.75 tablespoons butter or margarine
1/2 cup milk
1 ounce (a loose 1/3 cup) raisins

Preheat oven to 425 F.

Combine dry ingredients in a mixing bowl. Rub in butter (this is a delightful process of really getting your hands dirty and it works just like it sounds. Plunge your hands in there and rub the butter and dry ingredients together with your fingers until well combined). Add milk and mix to form a sturdy dough that just holds together. Add in raisins. Press into a disc and roll out. Using a circular biscuit cutter or the mouth of a glass, cut out 12 scones. You may need to press together scraps and roll out again in order to get all 12.

Bake for 10-12 minutes or until lightly golden. Remove to a wire rack to cool. Store in an air-tight container for up to five days (or at least that's how long they lasted at my house before I ate that last one).

Nutritional Information (per serving): 114 calories, 2.9 grams fat, 20.1 total carbs, 0.7 grams fiber.


Thoughts for Next Time

1.5 cups flour
1/4 cup wheat bran
2.5 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
4 tablespoons sugar
3.5 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup skim milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 (generous) teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1.5 ounces raisins

I like the idea of working from this healthy old fashioned base, but I would probably experiment next time around to add some more flavor elements and perhaps work towards a more rich crumb. I have been thinking about perhaps roasting the flour (a la molecular gastronomy) for enhanced flavor. I'm also toying in my head with whether some citrus zest would be a good way to pump up the flavor without losing the old fashioned (minimal butter and sugar) appeal of these scones. I've also been thinking eagerly about a more savory adaptation of the basic scones recipe here, maybe something with thyme...as a base for a tasty tea sandwich? yes I think so.

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Thursday, May 15, 2008

Almond Crusted Shrimp Tacos with Raspberry Pico de Gallo and Spicy Lime Mayo

This is a seafood taco that is dressy enough to impress guests, unique enough to dazzle your foodie friends, and still fast enough to whip up when pressed for time (20 minutes or less from start to finish). There is no other way to say it: this is is absolutely the best thing I have made in a long time. It was unexpected bursts of fruit dancing through crisp and crunch and tangy spice. It was good enough to call my husband on the phone and brag about how he had missed out. It was good enough for my friend Natasha to eek out an "Oh my god this is good! I can't believe we made this!" before she got back to the business of chowing down. When it was done we both stood, utterly satiated with bellies full, staring down at the empty plates while our greedy little taste buds wished for more.



This dish definitely has the kiss of gourmet, but is it skinny? Granted, any time you have almond crusting and frying you aren't exactly eating a salad, and anyone who tells you different is probably lying. But there are two options for this recipe, and it is delicious either way (I've tried it). You can make the decadent almond crusted shrimp along with a slice of buttery avocado, or if you are watching your waistline, go for the "light" version of boiled shrimp and skip the avocado. Take a gander at the nutritional information for a serving of the "light" version of this recipe: you won't believe how much taste and satisfaction you can get and still be that healthy.

I'm sending this over for my first ever entry into the Royal Foodie Joust hosted by the Leftover Queen. So feel free to head over to the forum and vote for me!



Almond Crusted Shrimp Tacos with Raspberry Pico de Gallo and Spicy Lime Mayo
by Erin McDonnell

Serves 2.

Serve with:
Small corn or flour tortillas
Finely shredded green cabbage
Sliced avocado (optional)

Spicy Lime Mayo
1.5 Tablespoons mayo (3/4 ounce)
juice from half a lime (1/3 ounce)
zest from half a lime
1/16 tsp cayenne pepper
3 turns salt mill (about two pinches)
1 turn fresh ground black pepper

Combine ingredients in a small bowl, such as a custard cup. Whisk together well with a fork. Taste and adjust to your preference.


Raspberry Pico De Gallo
8-12 fresh raspberries
1.5 Tbsp Vidalia onion (or shallot)
1.5 Tbsp cilantro

Rinse raspberries and pat dry gently. Finely mince the onion and cilantro. The raspberries can be mixed in either whole or quartered. Quartered will make this look like more traditional pico de gallo. I liked how leaving the berries whole allowed me to encounter the unexpected burst of berry from time to time while eating.


Almond Crusted Shrimp
1/2 pound jumbo shrimp (approx 4 per person)
1/2 cup finely chopped almonds*
1/2 tsp coarse kosher salt
3-4 turns of fresh black pepper
1 egg beaten (will only use half)
oil for frying

*Hint: if you are watching your fat intake, you can save about 5 grams of fat per serving by substituting half of the chopped almonds with bread crumbs


If you are working with raw, uncooked shrimp you will need to boil the shrimp first. Uncooked shrimp are gray in color. If your shrimp are raw, put a pot of well salted water on to boil. When the water boils, reduce the heat to low and add the shrimp. When cooked, the shrimp should turn red and float to the top of the water. When they are done, the flesh should appear opaque and firm. This takes approximately 2-4 minutes. Remove from water. If you have not already done so, remove the shells, cut off the tails, and devein the shrimp (check here for a video on how to devein shrimp).

If you are working with precooked (already pink) shrimp, just be sure to remove the shells, devein, and cut the tails off.

Finely chop almonds until they are the size of small pebbles or coarse sand. Mix with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Put a pan of oil on high heat on the stove. Allow the oil to get hot. There are two good ways to test the heat. First, if you have a silver-colored pan bottom, you should be able to see that the oil has begun to separate slightly, so that when you tip the pan from side to side, the color seems to move somewhat separately from the mass. Second, if you drop a small pebble of almond into the pan it should begin to sizzle almost immediately.

Pat shrimp dry. Dip the shrimp into the egg and then dip into the almond coating. Turn to coat well. Coat all the shrimp first. Then, working in batches so you don't over-crowd your pan, fry the shrimp in oil. Allow the shrimp to rest on one side long enough for the crust to form and the coating to solidify. Almonds may slightly brown but should not turn dark espresso or black in color or they will be bitter. Turn to cook on the other side. Approximately 2-4 minutes per side, depending on the heat of your oil.



Remove from oil to a paper-towel covered plate.

For Light Version
Prepare pico de gallo and spicy lime mayo. Cook raw shrimp as directed above in step one. If working with precooked shrimp, warm shrimp in hot water. Remove shell, tail, and devein. Skip directly to assembling and enjoy!

To assemble
Two tortillas per person. Add a bed of shredded cabbage. Add sliced avocado if desired. Add shrimp (approximately two jumbo shrimp per taco). Top with pico de gallo and spicy lime mayo.






Nutritional information, light version, per serving (two tacos).
"Light" version includes:

  • two corn tortillas
  • cabbage
  • four jumbo boiled shrimp
  • pico de gallo
  • lime mayo.

Does not include avocado or fried almond crusting.

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Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Ten Mistakes New Herb Gardeners Make (and How to Avoid Them!)

So you're thinking of herb gardening, or maybe you tried it last year and it was an utter disaster? Have no fear. There are a few simple mistakes that many herb newbies make (and I know, because I made most of 'em myself). Master these simple and practical tips for herb gardening and you'll be using your own fresh herbs like Mario Batali in no time.

Fresh herbs are one of the greatest ways to increase the taste of your food healthfully. I often toss whatever leafy herbs are hand liberally into a salad to add unexpected variations in flavor (basil, oregano and dill are all great choices). Fresh herbs can add punch to sauces or create intensely flavorful crusts for roasted meats. While fresh herbs are now regularly available at grocery stores year round, growing your own herbs is a great way to build mastery over your food. Growing herbs at home can be easy whether you live in a house in the suburbs or an apartment in the city.

Let it be known that I have the blackest of thumbs. I routinely kill houseplants and whether from too much love or too much neglect I never really know. Moreover, I live in a condo in Chicago, so I only have pots on my back fire escape as my city "garden." In fact, I'll argue that it is my black thumb that gives me the bona fides to give beginner gardeners tips, because I have figured out how to grow herbs and am painfully aware of every lesson I learned along the way.

It surprises me how often I bump into friends who are flummoxed about some aspect of herb gardening. And strangely, I feel there are few practical guides to growing herbs on the internet for someone just starting out. Most of the advice is geared towards high end gardeners who can make sense of soil PH and whatnot. When I was starting out, what I really needed was some sort of herb gardening for dummies. So here is my quick and practical advice for growing herbs for beginners.

  • Mistake 1: Growing from seed. When you first start out trying to grow fresh herbs, I recommend you begin by trying to grow from seedlings rather than planting your own seeds. These great little starter plants are widely available in grocery stores in the late spring. For the same price as a packet of fresh herbs from the produce section, you can buy your own little starter plant. Lots can go wrong in the seed to seedling transition (including not thinning out plants properly), so its probably best to begin by skipping that complicated task or you are in danger of washing out before you really begin.


  • Mistake 2: Starting with the wrong varieties. I recommend you start by trying to grow fresh basil. It is the perfect trainer herb. First, basil grows quickly, allowing you to observe the effects of your care more easily. Second, basil leaves wilt visibly when not watered enough, but recovers well if you water the wilted plant. This makes basil a great ‘canary in the mineshaft’ to help you figure out how much water is enough.


  • Mistake 3: Watering herbs like houseplants. Instead, water herbs a moderate amount every day. While some houseplants flourish with one solid watering per week, most delicate herbs require moderate and regular watering. This is particularly true during hot summer months. If you have good drainage at the bottom of your pot (at least a drainage hole, possibly rocks beneath the soil), it will be difficult to water herbs too much.




  • Mistake 4: Not cutting early and often. As a novice gardener, it may seem like your puny little plant just isn't ready for a trip to the barber, but then you will find yourself sitting there wishing for leaves without much success. Again, basil is a great herb to practice pruning. As with all herbs, you want to cut the herb just above a set of growing leaves. With basil, when you cut the plant that way, the originally trimmed stem will no longer grow. However, two new stems will grow around the original cutting, creating a “V” shape (see the photo above, can you spot the Vs?). If you don’t trim basil aggressively, it will continue to grow straight up, and become too tall and top-heavy. Making your first trim approximately 3-4” above the soil produces a nice sturdy plant. Of course you want to be sure you are always leaving a few good sturdy leaves on the plant (see below). As it continues to grow, continue to prune it approximately every 3-4" for a nice solid plant. I like to let it grow for some time and then cut back to within 2-3 inches of the original cut. After only a few early trial cuts, this usually makes for a nice clipping with plenty of basil to use for a pizza.




  • Mistake 5: Taking the leaves from the wrong place. When you are just starting out it seems to make so much sense to pick off a few big leaves around the bottom of the plant, and let those tender little guys at the top keep growing. Wrong. Leave those large tough old guys at the bottom alone. They are the solar panels that power your herb's growth. Once your plant is big enough to sustain a decent harvest, keep on taking from the top, as you have been when you were pruning. That way you get all those tender new herbs that are so tasty, and your plant gets to keep its well developed solar power system in place. Plus, if you pluck from the base and leave the top intact, you get a tall skinny plant that will flop over from its own weight (and yes, I know this from experience). When you pluck from the top, instead of clipping off just below a pair of leaves, you want to clip off just above a pair of leaves. It is a bit counter-intuitive as a novice, but trust me it works. The place where the leaf joins the stem is where new growth will occur when your plant sends off new stems in a V.



  • Mistake 6: Letting your plants get too randy. If you are pruning regularly, this may never become an issue, but unless you are growing something for its edible flowers, be sure to cut back herbs before they start growing flowers. My friend once brought me to her backyard garden and pointed, frustrated, at her wimpy, small basil plants. "I just keep tending them, but they don't even produce enough leaves to put on a salad!" she lamented. I pointed to the glorious stalk of flowers at the top of each plant, "That's your problem" I explained. Because herbs are kind of like college boys: if you give them half a chance, they will focus all their energy on procreation and neglect growth. If you want leaves, keep cutting off the little flower buds whenever you find them (see photo above), and it will encourage your plant to focus on growing more leaves.


  • Mistake 7: Using tired soil with no nutrients. Tired soil that has been sitting in your garden or lawn for ages often looks grey and a little depressing. Would you want to grow in that stuff? Give your plants a dose of the good stuff and they'll thank you for it. I grow my herbs in a combination of potting soil, used coffee grounds (with a near-neutral PH, available for free at Starbucks), and organic compost. If I have some on hand, I also throw in crushed egg shells. Those without access to compost (and no deep commitment to organic growing) may find Miracle grow useful. My momma swears by it for tomatoes. A diluted solution of Miracle grow occasionally can help many herbs flourish.


  • Mistake 8: Getting in a rut. There is an element to passion about herb gardening. In order to be good at it, you need to feel rewarded. So don't stick too long with one or two herbs just because they work. Branch out to a few other basic herbs that you will use regularly in your kitchen. There are few things more rewarding as an urban foodie than being able to pop out to the fire escape to clip fresh herbs to use in my cooking. Once you have become comfortable with basil, I recommend moving on to try growing oregano, mint, rosemary and thyme. All are regularly useful herbs in the kitchen, and all are relatively easy to grow. You will notice that rosemary cleaves after cutting in a somewhat similar way to basil, but grows much more slowly, so the effect is difficult to notice. Some plants also respond to clipping by throwing out more full leaves at their base. I have long wanted to grow cilantro but have not had much luck with it.


  • Mistake 9: You mean there's more than one kind of mint?When choosing herbs, read the label carefully. For example, there are two main varieties of oregano: Mediterranean and Mexican. Mediterranean oregano is the more common variety, and what you likely own if you have conventional dried oregano in your cupboard. I have Mexican oregano growing on my back fire escape. I love Mexican oregano in spicy dishes, for making beans from scratch, and often use it in tomato dishes where I don't want the flavor to seem too much like marinara. Similarly, there are many different kinds of mint. You don't want to be thinking of the pungent spearmint plant and accidentally take home the much more subtle (and not mojito savvy) applemint by mistake.


  • Mistake 10: Feed me Seymour! If you are planting in soil instead of pots, take care that your cute little herb seedling doesn't become a giant plant that takes over your garden. A word of warning for oregano and mint: both can be voracious growers. If you are planting outside in a garden, rather than in pots, you may want to consider potting these herbs and then burying the pots in the ground. This will add a measure of control to the root systems of these herbs, which can otherwise take over a garden and strangle nearby neighbors. When in doubt, check out wikipedia, they usually are careful to point out which herbs are in danger of overwhelming your garden.

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Saturday, May 10, 2008

Pasta Alioli with Lobster

To me, pasta alioli is like a more elegantly simple, and healthy, version of fettucini alfredo. People will go to great lengths to reduce the fat and calories in traditional fettucini alfredo, and along the way it becomes a sort of franken-sauce with all sorts of odds and ends and quirky substitutions. So before you reach for the partially hydrogenated defatted cream cheese for some franken-fredo, give this flavorful, natural and indulgent sauce a try.

My husband's near obsession with pasta alioli had rather unintentional beginnings. We were sitting on the balcony of our apartment in Accra Ghana during the first time he visited me there, in 2003. A fellow expat, Julie, had recently introduced me to 'zines, which to my mind are these amazing self-published expressions of dedication to free and non-corporate speech. Smack in the middle of this one zine was a call to arms: people put down those tasteless jars of marinara sauce. The zine author claimed that the only excuse was not having time, but even if you were short on time, you could always throw together a delicious and quick alioli with what you had on hand in the house. I showed Terry. He said, "Hey, we have all that stuff." And we tried it that night. And probably 100 nights since then. Because it really is delicious and easy. So I'm sending this one on over to Ruth for Presto Pasta Night.






In truth, we don't do this pasta with lobster every night of the week because we are afraid of catching the gout (too much lobster=gout. It happened to Terry's uncle). No, really it is because we can't shell out for lobster every night of the week. But after one particularly stressful and troublesome day of fieldwork in Ghana, I decided it was time for a little luxury. I stopped off at the store on the way home and lo, there was a fridge section full of lobsters. Some of them were as big as the Governator's biceps (and that is no hyperbole). But I settled in for a pack of mini lobsters.




Ingredients

Serves 2.

1 Tablespoon butter
1 Tablespoon olive oil
4 cloves garlic
1 dried red chili or red pepper flakes to taste
4 teaspoons half and half
1 Tablespoon Parmesan cheese
4 oz spaghetti
6 oz lobster, shrimp or crab meat
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste


Put two pots of salted water on to boil (one for the lobsters, one for the pasta). When water boils, add pasta to one and lobsters to the other.

Add butter and olive oil to a saute pan and heat over medium heat. While heating, finely chop the garlic.

When butter has melted, add the chopped garlic and the whole dried red chili or the red pepper flakes. The heat of the oil will activate the oils in the pepper to bring out the flavor, and the pepper will infuse the oil. Cook over medium heat until garlic is golden and fragrant. Do not allow the garlic to burn: if cooking too quickly, lower heat.

When garlic is golden, reduce heat to low. Add the half and half. Tilt the pan to mix the half and half in with the oil and butter.

When pasta is al dente, remove from heat and strain. Do not rinse. If using a whole dried chili, remove the chili before combining with pasta. Return the pasta to the pot it was boiled in. Pour the alioli sauce over the pasta. Toss to coat.



When lobsters are bright red and begin to float to the top of the pot, remove the pot from the heat. If you are not quite ready to serve yet, allow the lobsters to remain in the warm water until you are ready to plate them to keep the meat warm. Just before serving, remove the whole lobsters from the water. On a stable cutting block, use a large knife to cut off the tail. Then use the knife to crack a slit along the long side of the softer exoskeleton on the underside of the tail (if the tail is curved, the underside is the inside part of the "C" of the curve). You can serve the lobster in the tail alongside the pasta or remove the lobster meat and serve it on top a bed of the pasta.

Grate a few turns of fresh Parmesan cheese or some other pungent cheese. That way, instead of the cheese disappearing into the sauce, you get a few mouthfuls where the cheese is really present mixed in with a few mouthfuls that focus more on the sauce itself.

You can optionally serve some warm butter and garlic in small dishes for dipping the lobster. This is a bit decadent and totally makes my day. If you opt for this, provide approximately 1 tablespoon of melted butter per person. I like to sit a cup with the butter on top of the lobsters after I have removed them from the fire to slowly melt the butter with no fuss. But then again, when I made this in Ghana I didn't have a microwave, so feel free to use your own favorite butter-melting method.



Compare the wise indulgence of pasta alioli with lobster to the to this classic recipe for alfredo on epicurious.com:


SG Alioli with lobster, per servingEpicurious Alfredo (no lobster), per serving


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Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Food Blogger Event: Spring Tea Party!

Gird your pinafores, artfully cuff your kimonos: you are cordially invited to a tea party.

Tea is a global industry with a thousand local faces. It is also a really tasty excuse to get together with some friends on a Saturday afternoon and have a good time. So I'm getting in the mood for warm saturday afternoons in the garden and smart picnics with an annual food blogger event: a spring tea party.

Eligible posts should fall into one of three categories:

1. Tell us about tea culture and traditions in your area. Give us an eyeful of a Japanese tea ceremony, share your grandma's recipe for Southern Sweet Tea, or make a Moroccan tea traditions come alive for us.

2. Blog about a food treat meant to be eaten with tea. This could be traditional English scones or cucumber sandwiches, but also includes more contemporary interpretations on these classics. Feel free to be as classic or imaginative as you like, but the final product should ideally conform to the "small bites" approach of most tea food.

3. Make a food that includes tea as a key ingredient. Earl Grey cupcakes? Green Tea bread pudding? Heck yes.

Email me at skinnygourmet[AT] gmail [DOT] com by May 25th. Be sure to put "Tea Party" in the Subject Line so I can be sure you don't wind up in the Spam folder.

Please include (in this order):
Your name
Your blog name
Your blog's address
The name of your dish/post
The permalink to your post

Remember to include a link in your post back to the Skinny Gourmet (http://skinnygourmet.blogspot.com). The roundup will be posted by May 31st.

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Monday, May 5, 2008

Against Risotto

For a while I've been carrying a guilty secret around with me: I don't like risotto. I mean, I would eat it if it were the only thing standing between me and starvation, but I would really never order it by choice. And with foodies all around talking up risotto, risotto appearing on all sorts of fine dining menus, I couldn't help but feel a bit, well, estranged. So I brought a little wisdom from my career to bear on my favorite hobby. In the world of academics, if you think you don't agree with an argument or ideology, the wisest scholars go out and study with the best thinker of that position. If you still aren't convinced, then you can feel secure in your opinion. Well, I think the same applies to food. So I finally had my chance to learn risotto from one of the best and I leapt at the chance. One way or another, I would finally feel secure in my opinion of risotto.

The Whole Foods in Evanston, IL offers a really wonderful demonstration cooking series, where for only $20 per person you get to sit in on a multi-course cooking demonstration with "tasting" portions large enough to satisfy a linebacker. Recently they held a class taught by Mary McMahon, a former [Charlie Trotter's] Trio chef and two time Jean Banchet award winner who now teaches at Now We're Cookin'. Though she is most famous as a pastry chef, a former Trio chef is still a former Trio chef. To learn how to make two different kinds of spring risottos in a close class setting with such a chef was an opportunity too good to pass up.

I began a quest to settle, once and for all, my opinion on risotto. The class also managed to deepen my already great appreciation of beets. But that was just the opening act. By the time I was done I had a few great tips and tricks for the kitchen, and two killer garnishes I will use again and again.


For a nice twist on a classic combination, try your next roasted beet salad with arugala. The goat cheese was rolled in finely chopped pistachios, and the balsamic vinegrette had just a hint of citrus. I was delighted and surprised by how well the additions of citrus and pistachio worked with the peppery arugala. It was a twist definitely worth replicating at home.

The second great surprise of the night was that my husband and I discovered how tasty beet greens are. I have roasted beets plenty of times and always thrown the stalks and leaves away without a thought. McMahon's class focused not only on themes of spring, but also on sustainability. So after the beet salad, we learned how to make use of the whole plant. She chopped the greens and stalks and then sauteed both in a bit of olive oil with minced garlic. This healthy side was finished off with salt, pepper, and a healthy squeeze of lemon.

While preparing the first courses, Mary shared an interesting kitchen tip that I thought you might be interested in. First, she mentioned that she just got back from a chef tasting of specialized mineral salts hosted by Chicago's famous Spice House. She said that when the chefs dipped simple apple slices into the different salts, they could taste slight differences. But when dishes were cooked with the specialty salts, none of the chefs could tell the specialty salts from regular, non-iodized salt.

Mary made two delightful garnishes, one of which is one of the more creative and memorable garnishes I have ever seen: an amazing parmesan gellato. That's right, you read that correctly: parmesan cheese gellato. Working on a double-boiler, Mary brought a cup of cream to simmer, and stirred in about one cup of finely grated parmesan cheese. She allowed us to taste the mixture before salting, and then she added a half teaspoon of salt and we tasted again. It was never clearer that effective salting amplifies the flavor of the dish (more parmesan) not the flavor of salt. Then she put the cream and melted parmesan cheese into the freezer to freeze. Remove one hour before serving and allow it to soften just until it is scoopable. Place a scoop on top of each serving to garnish.

The second garnish was a gremolata. Mary explained that gremolata is a traditional accompaniment to osso buco in Italian cooking. She explained that even though we now see all kinds of varieties of "pesto" (e.g. cilantro pesto) actually pesto is a very particular type of the broader class of gremolatas defined by the combination of basil, pine nuts, olive oil and cheese. Gremolatas in general are finely chopped or blended herbs, and may optionally contain olive oil or cheese. The most traditional gremolata includes blended flat leaf parsley, lemon peel and garlic. She demonstrated a classic gremolata for us and I found it a wonderfully healthy flavor booster.

In the end, I was convinced that lovingly standing over the stove and stirring the risotto made it creamy, but in the end I didn't think the final taste and texture together was really worth the fat and calories in the dish. I tentatively asked Mary about possibilities for lightening risotto and she politely but firmly shot me down. Her first quote was that in the professional kitchen, the wisdom is that "fat equals flavor." Fats certainly contribute to flavor, but in the interest of health I am always more interested in finding things that contribute lots of flavor relative to their fat content. Because in the end, it isn't exactly shocking if something full of butter and cheese is at least a bit tasty, but for that much butter and cheese I pretty much want to be speechless. The second comment was that she would rather eat a little amount of something very delicious than gorge herself on something less tasty. If you've read my philosophy, you know I totally agree with her. I just wasn't convinced that risotto was the sort of thing that was a smart indulgence.

So I ate the risotto, and now I can comfortably say it just isn't worth it for me. From now on I will pass on risotto whenever I see it on a menu without being haunted by the thought that I am somehow less of a foodie for it.


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Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Balsamic Baked Apples

I love balsamic with cherries, and balsamic with strawberries, so why not apples? This is a sort of deconstructed apple pie that gives the tartness of apples a little punch with some acidic, earthy yet sweet balsamic vinegar.

This all came about because I am participating in Taste and Create a wonderful food blogger exchange hosted by For the Love of Food. It is something like the food blogger equivalent of having someone over to your house. Bloggers are paired and each partner is tasked with selecting and making a recipe from the other person's blog. This time around I was paired with Bombay Foodie. Bombay Foodie is a relatively new blog, just got started in February of this year, but already plenty of tasty ideas. Her recipe for Balsamic Apples caught my eye.



Bombay Foodie describes the process like this:

"I just spread the slices in a single layer on a baking sheet, then sprinkled some demarara sugar [raw cane sugar]. Poured in two large slugs of balsamic vinegar to coat everything, and covered the baking sheet with a foil to stop the fruit burning. I baked it in a 200C [about 400F] oven for 10 minutes, then removed the foil and sprinkled some walnuts. Baked the apples for another five minutes or so, this time without the foil, until the juice has reduced to a thick syrup. They were delicious warm and straight out of the oven."

In keeping with the idea of a recipe exchange, I tried to follow the letter and the spirit of the instructions. The directions are really written for someone who likes to free-wheel a bit in the kitchen, as there are no indications of the proportion of apples to sugar to balsamic. I used a single Granny Smith apple. I cut it into what I consider standard pie size, which is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick slices, and then each slice was cut into thirds to produce little hunks. I had no walnuts (which I am sure are perfect in this) so I used the slivered almonds I had on hand.

I used between 2 tsp and 1 Tbsp of sugar. As the recipe said, I gave it two "glugs" of balsamic, which is a wonderful onomatopoetic cooking term for the amount that comes out of a bottle before the flow stalls and the bottle seems to gulp or "glug" for air. It isn't really that much, something like a hearty splash. Because I was using only one apple, I gave it two hearty splashes and that seemed enough to both coat all the pieces and leave a bit in the bottom to form the syrup.

As written, I first sprinkled with cane sugar and then coated with balsamic, but I found myself thinking that perhaps it would have been a good idea to use the balsamic first, turn the pieces to coat, and then sprinkle evenly with sugar. With I was turning to coat in balsamic, I had the sense that the sugar was running off the slices and collecting in the pan. At any rate, it will become tasty syrup in the end.

I imagine my apple slices were larger than Bombay Foodie's because I had to bake mine for at least 25 minutes in the 400 degree (F) oven, and even then I would say the apples were more al dente than the glorious mushy softness of pie. Based on the original description, I also believe I must not have added enough balsamic, because I didn't have any syrup left in the bottom at the end: the apples had soaked it all up. It gave some of the apples a really interesting rich brown color on the side of the apple that had been soaking up the juice.

Because Bombay Foodie describes this as a sort of apple pie without the pie crust, I decided I might use up some pita I had on hand making cinnamon sugar pita wedges to serve with the apple filling. I really liked the apple filling with the pita wedges, probably because the apple pies of my childhood all contained cinnamon, but the original description didn't call for any spices. That little kick of cinnamon from the wedges really made it for me, and I liked how it interacted with the balsamic, making it one tasting note among several rather than a single dominant note.

This is an interesting twist on a classic dessert and a great time saver for those of you who don't like making pie crust. If I made it again, I would slice the apples thinner, use more balsamic, and add a dollop of butter and cinnamon to the mix.

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